The year 2016 is almost over and it is the best time to prepare our self for the new year 2017. To prepare myself for the upcoming year I like to think and evaluate all the new things that I have learned ( professionally and in personal life) and all the new skills that I’ve gained. That sets me on the right path to what I want to learn in the next year! Setting goals for myself!
That is me, that’s how I think and if you are one of my students you know that I am passionate about sharing my knowledge and helping you to achieve your goals and today is not going to be any different.
Today’s post will be about Best Value tips for 2016, actionable shoe making tips that you can use already today after reading this post.
Now, if we are talking about you, what new shoe making skills have you gained this year?
What have you learned?
Maybe you still thinking about them? Maybe it was your goal back then in 2014 or 2015 and you still didn’t reach it yet?
Best 9 Shoe making Tips for 2016 that I Use in My Work!
1. Cutting of lining allowance
Very often I can see in the shoes that you make (my students), that edges of lining extend from the upper. It damaging the total look of the shoes, and it makes your shoes looks cheap. It happens, because you cut your lining allowance wrong, too far away from the edge of the folded upper (leaving too much lining). That’s why the edge extends.
What you need to do is :
First of all, after you will finish sewing of the top line, open and clear the top edge of the upper from the lining, so you will not attach it together by accident. You need to open it in order to cut lining allowance close to the seem.
Then to cut it, hold scissors in the way where the edges of the scissors lay almost in 180 degrees. Hold it in this angle and cut close to the seem. Cut it from the side of the lining.
If you will cut allowance this way, you will cut close to the seam but you will not touch the seem. This will guarantee that lining edge will stay behind the folded edge and will not extend. The secret is to hold scissors close to the seem in right angle.
2. Right placement of steel shank on the insoles
It is very important to attach steel shank on the right place on the insoles to have good support for the arch zone in shoes with high heels. There are different types of steel shanks. The one that I showed you in the image, is the right one for footwear with high heels.
To find the right place on the insoles measures 2.5- 3 cm from the joint line.
3. How to fold correctly and easy uppers with curves
You usually encounter difficulty to fold your upper in the places with curves. So to fold it in the easiest way you need to make few cuts in the folding. Cuts must not belong, about half of the fold.
For example, folding is 4 mm, so make cuts not longer than 2 mm. It is very important, because if you will make cuts more than a half of the fold, you will get not a smooth folding and cuts will be visible.
4. Right approach to last shoes
During lasting pull the edges and twist them in the same time. This way it will be much easier to spread folds, especially in the toe area.
5. Seam allowance in the back part of lining
When you construct the lining’s back part pattern, you need to add 2 mm to the back bottom part of the lining till the center line.
6. Correct throat line in pump shoes
Don’t forget that inner side of throat line of the pumps is higher than a line of the outer side. What you need to do, is copy the outer sideline to create inner sideline and add 4-6mm in the deepest place of the throat line on the inner side.
7. Where to start sewing pump’s top line?
It is such a tiny detail, but important to make beginning and finishing of the seem less noticed. To do so you can start sewing of the pump’s top line from the inner side, close to the heel. As a result, you will finish your sewing also in the same place. This place – inner side in the heel is less noticed than every other place on the upper.
8. Reinforce your derby upper well
After you will finish sewing your derby shoes (or Oxford shoes) you need to reinforce the quotes seams in the inner side of the upper.
9. The right order of upper and lining assembling
To assemble upper and lining correctly, easy and fast there is right order. First of all place a little bit glue on the inner side of the upper close to the edge and on the lining. Then, first start to attach back to the upper ( central line or back seam) with the back of the lining. After it, attach the front of the upper and lining. Use central lines of both parts as a guideline. Then attach other parts.
That is it! This is my Best Shoe making Tips for 2016! Best way to check them is to use them in your shoe making work. I hope you will find a great use for those methods and techniques to make your work flawless.
Let’s have great Shoemaking Year 2017!!!
It’s really been helpful to me.. . Thanks alot
Great! Thank you Henry.